In Esfahan. At the airport, there was a sign, which I must scan: "We have the pleasure to welcome all the participants to international congres of Islamic Arts and Grafts". Uh huh, yeah, that sounds like the Iran I know. Also in the Shiraz bazaar, they were selling a "Neda and Nazi" set of twin dolls... what is that, a doll where you pull the string and its right arm comes up and says "Heil Hitler!"?
People were smoking marijuana at some of the Persepolis tombs - it was surprising to me, the minimum jail sentence is six months for possession. A little old American lady was very surprised and flattered by the welcome she received from young Iranian women, even though they didn't know each others' language.
OK, one last thing - popping by the Amir Kabir Hostel, there are lots of complaints in the guestbook (written mainly in Japanese) about dual pricing for foreigners. The most extreme example is still Persepolis, 300 tomans for Iranians, 6000 for any foreigner.
And you can still do an Iraq tour starting from Amman in Jordan - you just need five people! Time is running short!!